New Zealand Wine Fair, Ottawa May 8, 2012

 

What a pleasant and insightful wine event I attended, on 08 May 12, here in Ottawa, Ontario. We all know the quality of New Zealand (NZ) Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, but I also tasted a variety of other aromatic whites and Syrahs from Hawke's Bay region. New Zealand is a nation of islands, strongly committed to the environment and sustainability, with a vast combination of soil and maritime climate temperature. The challenge in NZ is not high alcohol or jamyness but high acidity. When winemakers get the balance between fruit and acid right, their wines are simply delicious. Here are my highlights from this wine fair.   

Sauvignon Blanc; I would say that 80% of Sauvignon Blanc (SB) I purchase are from NZ. Which means, tasting my way through a line-up of SB at this wine fair, I was able to discover wines from producers which I have never tasted before. There seem to be two styles of Sauvignon Blanc (SB) produced in NZ. One style which made them highly popular, the more herbaceous style with green pepper, tinned asparagus, green peas and fresh cut grass; the other, a fruitier and more pungent style of SB with flavours of pine nettles, fresh cut grass, passion fruit, kiwi, citrus fruit, peach, melon and even more tropical fruit like pineapple with classic NZ acidity and generally unoaked. I personally prefer the latter style. I was actually quite impressed with most of the SB I tasted, I found them to be well balanced and well done in both styles. My favourite and a good value, Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2011, a crisp, refreshing, unoaked SB with flavours of pink grapefruit, gooseberry and pine nettle. Also very enjoyable and well done were, Astrolabe "Province" Sauvignon Blanc 2011 with nice fruit/acid balance and slight creaminess on the finish and Spinyback Sauvignon Blanc 2011 with and interesting flinty and minerals notes. An excellent example of the style of SB that I enjoy, Giesen Wines Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2011 and Yealands Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2011 both are intensely flavourful and refreshing wines. Finally, Giesen August 1888 Sauvignon Blanc 2010 an interesting and more complex SB with extended time on lees and barrel fermentation with luscious fruit and creamy finish best enjoyed with food.

Other Whites; I didn't tasted any Gewürztraminer, I must admit, this is not a grape I enjoy. I have on occasion tasted very nice Alsatian Gewürztraminer, but it has to be paired with the right food. I don't like smelling excessive floral notes in my wine and if I smell lychee, that's it, I am not going there. I did taste some very nice wine, my favourite was Churton Viognier 2010, wow great aromatics with white peach, apricots, orange peel and a creamy off-dry mouthfeel, fruity and honeyed flavours top off by lively acidity. I Quite enjoy the two Pinot Gris from the same producer, Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Pinot Gris 2011 and Torea Pinot Gris 2011. Now for Rieslings, I much prefer off dry Germain Mosel Riesling, but in a blind tasting I would have been fooled by Giesen Wines Estate Riesling 2011, the aromatics brought me back to Germany with aromas of lime, peach, orange peel, honey and kerosene, on the palate, light bodied (9% Alc.), luscious fruit texture and crisp acidity. Well done guys, I really enjoyed that Riesling and at that price $15.95... are you kidding me.

Pinot Noir; What I like in a Pinot Noir (PN) is a lighter bodied wine with a good balance between soft berry fruit, sweet spices some earthy notes (I also enjoy some barnyard notes) and soft silky tannins. Of the dozen PN tasted, I found them to have good varietal character, the under $20.00 easy drinking and over $20.00 with a little more complexity and character. Funny thing almost all the PN tasted were at 14% alcohol. My favourite PN was from Giesen Wines, The Brothers Pinot Noir 2010, very attractive aromatics with cherry, plum, Asian spices, clove, tobacco leaf and damp earth. On the mouthfeel, light to medium bodied (13.5% alc.) with lots of detail and flavours, balanced acidity and fine grained tannins. Good length and very smooth on the finish, with seductive fruit, spices, vanilla and oak notes. Also very enjoyable the complex and nicely layered Villa Maria Estate Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2010 and these three youthful, fresh and bright PN; Babich Wines Pinot Noir 2009, Giesen Estate Pinot Noir 2010 and Yealands Estate Pinot Noir 2010.

Syrah;  There was only one Syrah on the main tasting floor, a very nice, Coopers Creek SV Chalk Ridge Syrah 2009, delicious, well made and spicy example of Syrah. But I soon discovered that hidden behind the curtains, a seminar with four flight (Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Syrah) was being held. Since I had already moved on to red wines, I decided to only try the Syrah. I tried seven wines in total, two of them I found to have a strong medicinal aromatic (like opening your medicine cabinet) but overall these Syrah were quite different and interesting. My favourite was John Forest Collection Syrah 2007, a more complex layered, almost Northern Rhône like Syrah. Followed up by Trinity Hill Homage Syrah 2009, with velvety texture, reminding me of some of the best California Syrah or even Merlot, with luscious fruit, toasty oak and very smooth finish with a price tag to match at $97.00. Finally the only Syrah grown on fossilised limestone soil, Coopers Creek Reserve Syrah 2010, a elegant, medium body beauty, where 2.43% Viognier was co-fermented with the Syrah to produce a very aromatic wine with aromas of wild berries, plum, violet, white pepper and savoury notes. I was ask to revisit Man O’ War Dreadnought Syrah 2009, I was the first one to try a newly opened bottle without the benefit of decanting. I had found it to be too medicinal for me, on second try a bit better but still not a top three for me. There was no clear favourite, those tasting with me were split between John Forest Collection Syrah 2007, Trinity Hill Homage Syrah 2009 and Man O’ War Dreadnought Syrah 2009. That’s the beauty of wine, no bag wines but wines which appeal to different palate. Very interesting and enjoyable line up of New Zealand Syrah.

Here are my top 15 wines tasted at this Fair
(In no particular order)
1- Astrolabe "Province" Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough  - $21.95
2- Babich Wines Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough - $19.95
3- Churton Viognier 2010, Marlborough - $36.95
4- Coopers Creek Reserve Syrah 2010, Hawke's Bay - $28.95
5- Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Pinot Gris 2011, Marlborough - $25.00
6- Giesen Wines Estate Pinot Noir 2010,  Marlborough - $19.95
7- Giesen Wines Estate Riesling 2011,  Marlborough - $15.95
8- Giesen Wines Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2011,  Marlborough - $17.95
9- Giesen Wines The Brothers Pinot Noir 2010,  Marlborough - $29.95
10-John Forrest Collection Syrah 2007, Gimblett Gravel, Hawke's Bay - $59.95
11-Trinity Hill Homage Syrah 2009, Gimblett Gravel, Hawke's Bay - $97.00
12-Villa Maria Estate Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2009,  Marlborough - $35.95
13-Whitehaven Wine Company Sauvignon Blanc 2011,  Marlborough - $19.95
14-Yealands Estate Pinot Noir 2010, Ortogo - $19.95
15-Yealands Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough - $19.95

Who knew I would learn so much in 3 short hours. I appreciate that most booths had a winery principal, you can feel the passion, knowledge, and love for what they do. What was most memorable for me , the Syrah seminar and Giesen Wines. I tasted six of Giesen wines and in my book, all winners. Sometimes a winery will make wines that seems tailored to ones palate, and this is a good example of that. Most of their wines are available through private order only, I would certainly like them to be at the LCBO.  I would not want to miss the opportunity to thank the organizers who provided three delicious Canadian cheese from the province of Québec including Louis D’Or, the Grand Champion, 2011 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix as well as winner in the Firm, Farmhouse and Organic categories.

Cheers

 A Gisborne, New Zealand vineyard